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Matrixyl

Cosmetic

Also known as: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Pal-KTTKS, Matrixyl Original

Half-life: Topical (residence time in stratum corneum)

Last reviewed:  ·  Published:

Anti Aging

Overview

Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, also written Pal-KTTKS) is a synthetic peptide composed of the pentapeptide sequence Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (KTTKS) — a fragment of type I procollagen — coupled to a palmitic acid chain to make the molecule lipophilic enough to penetrate the stratum corneum. Once in the skin, the peptide signals fibroblasts to upregulate synthesis of collagen types I, III, and IV as well as fibronectin and hyaluronic acid, mimicking the natural wound-healing response without requiring actual injury. The result is a thickening of the dermis and improvement in fine-line appearance over weeks to months of consistent topical application.

Matrixyl was developed by Sederma (a French cosmetic ingredients company, part of Croda International) and launched in the late 1990s. It has been the subject of more cosmetic-industry clinical literature than almost any other peptide cosmetic ingredient. Multiple controlled studies have shown measurable improvements in skin roughness, wrinkle depth, and dermal thickness with sustained topical use at 3-5% concentrations.

Matrixyl is a topical cosmetic ingredient, not an injectable peptide. While research-chemical vendors do sometimes sell pure Matrixyl powder for formulators making custom topicals, it is not intended for subcutaneous injection and the safety of injecting it has not been characterized. Newer Matrixyl variants (Matrixyl 3000, Matrixyl Synthe'6) combine different peptide fragments with similar mechanisms.

History

Matrixyl was developed by Sederma (a Croda International subsidiary) in the late 1990s, building on academic work in the 1980s and early 1990s that had identified KTTKS as a bioactive fragment of human procollagen with fibroblast-stimulating activity. The original publication establishing KTTKS's collagen-stimulating activity came from Karl Kadler and colleagues. Matrixyl was one of the first peptide-active cosmetic ingredients to find broad commercial adoption, paving the way for the proliferation of "peptide skincare" through the 2000s and 2010s.

Effects

  • Stimulates dermal collagen I, III, and IV synthesis
  • Increases fibronectin production
  • Increases hyaluronic acid synthesis
  • Reduces fine-line and wrinkle depth over 8-12 weeks
  • Improves skin roughness and dermal thickness

Side Effects

  • Topical: very low rate of irritation or sensitization
  • Occasional contact dermatitis
  • Not formulated or tested for injection

Tolerability

Topical Matrixyl has an excellent safety profile across decades of cosmetic use, with very low rates of irritation, sensitization, or contact dermatitis. It is suitable for most skin types including sensitive skin. Because it works through fibroblast signaling rather than chemical exfoliation, it does not produce the irritation associated with retinoids or alpha-hydroxy acids. The peptide is not intended for injection and the safety of injectable use is not established.

Dosing Ranges

Topical anti-aging (cosmetic)

Dose Range

3-5% w/w in topical formulation

Frequency

Once or twice daily

Duration

8-12 weeks minimum for visible results

Dosing information is for educational purposes only. Consult a healthcare professional before using any peptide.

Reconstitution

Preparation Details

Typical Vial Size

10 mg

Water Type

Not applicable — topical cosmetic ingredient

Mixing Volume

N/A mL

Half-Life

Topical (residence time in stratum corneum)

Molecular Weight

802.0 Da

Matrixyl is incorporated into cosmetic formulations (serums, creams) at typically 3-5% concentration. It is stable in standard cosmetic vehicles and tolerates a wide pH range (5-7). Not intended for injection.

Calculate Matrixyl dose

Where to buy Matrixyl

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Disclosure: PinnyPeptide may earn a commission on purchases made through the links above, at no extra cost to you. We only list vendors we're willing to point our community at, but inclusion is not a clinical endorsement. Always verify each vendor's third-party testing and your local legal status before purchasing.

Regulatory Status

FDA Status

Cosmetic ingredient (not regulated as a drug).

Legal Status

Legal as cosmetic ingredient worldwide.

USA

Cosmetic ingredient

Permitted in topical cosmetic products

EU

Cosmetic ingredient

Listed in EU Cosing database

UK

Cosmetic ingredient

Permitted in cosmetic products

Australia

Cosmetic ingredient

Permitted in topical formulations

Canada

Cosmetic ingredient

Listed in Canadian Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist as permitted

Cited Studies

Carboxy-terminal collagen propeptide induces collagen synthesis in human fibroblasts

Katayama K, Armendariz-Borunda J, Raghow R, Kang AH, Seyer JM

Journal of Biological Chemistry (1993)

Foundational study identifying the KTTKS pentapeptide as a bioactive fragment of procollagen with the ability to stimulate further collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts — the discovery that led to Matrixyl.

View Study →

The effectiveness of a topical formulation containing palmitoyl pentapeptide (KTTKS) in human photoaged skin

Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, Dawes NC, Berge CA, Bissett DL

International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2005)

Controlled clinical study demonstrating that 12 weeks of topical Pal-KTTKS reduced wrinkle depth and improved skin texture in photoaged skin compared to vehicle control.

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Clinical evaluation of palmitoyl pentapeptide for the treatment of facial photoaging

Lupo MP, Cole AL

Dermatologic Therapy (2007)

Independent clinical review of Matrixyl efficacy across multiple cosmetic trials, supporting its place as a well-characterized anti-aging peptide ingredient with measurable effects.

View Study →

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